Evening sessions after work have been quite productive and I tried Zippy's companion route to the right of Waddage, Fowl Play, which is an 8a+ that gets virtually ignored, despite very good climbing for the most part. It was the only thing dry I hadn't done so I was keen to get involved. The top moves are very thin and involve a very tenuous rockover using a small left hand gaston onto the 'slab' just where the route joins Waddage. I could barely do these moves in isolation whilst working the route so was a little apprehensive about linking the whole thing. Luckily I need not have worried as it came together quite nicely. The start of Green Alternative (a burly 7c) leads to a poor rest on an overhung ledge before Rooster Booster pitch 2 kicks in (a physical 7c). Then the route gets a lot easier at the Cream Team break where you move left to a junction with the Waddage rest. I was able to get almost full recovery before the top bit, which I reckon has to be V6 moves at least, the incentive in not falling was avoiding doing all the bottom bit again!
At Kilnsey, I reluctantly decided that Full Tilt was not an option due to it being too wet so got stuck in to Cold Steal instead which I initially found pretty hard. With repeated attempts, it soon got easier though. On redpoint, I pumped out on the last 4 moves just before the last clip which was gutting so had to come back the following weekend to seal the deal.
At Rubicon, the last few evening sessions of the year were spent trying the Pinch Test, a very tricky 7c+ of Zippy's and one of the last lines at the crag which I haven't done which won't involve protracted sieging. That said, it took me 4 sessions so it was with relief that I clipped the anchor yesterday. I managed to capture the ascent on video so here it is. This may be the only video in existence of this route so I hope the beta is of some use, it took ages to work out!
Today, I was quite tired second day on trying the Inch Test and didn't manage to make much headway so that will have to wait until the Autumn cool when I return from the south of France, which is where im headed tomorrow. Ceuse will be on the agenda although this trip will be more of a sightseeing journey to be honest, it would be good to sneak a 7c or two though!
