Attraverso il Pesce

I was going through old files the other day and thought it would be useful to post up pictures of my ascent with Ben Heason of Attraferso il Pesce or 'The Fish' on the south face of the Marmolada in August 2009. I wrote an article about our ascent at the time and set this out below, in case it is of any use to anybody planning their own ascent. This was all before blogs or instagram!

The Fish – South Face of the Marmolada, Dolomites, August 2009

By Ted Kingsnorth

Having been on a trip to the Dolomites in August 2000 with some friends from Manchester University, when I had ticked a number of classic routes, I had always been keen to head back for more. I had been inspired by the huge expanses of vertical walls, spectacular situations and the high standard of free climbing that was possible with, on the whole, good protection, in the form of pegs or trad gear. In particular, when on the Comici Route on the north face of the Cima Grande, a very famous route of about E2 or E3 in standard, I had looked across at the vast overhanging wall on the same face taken by the Brandler Hasse, a sustained E5, and wondered if I would ever be good enough to climb it. A member of our party had done the Brandler that trip and so I resolved to return when I had gained the necessary climbing skills and experience to do battle once more.

Signpost to the Marmolada

      Fast forward nine years and I have teamed up with Ben Heason to attempt the Brandler. Much planning has gone into this trip with countless emails exchanged to arrange the necessary gear and logistics. As we took off from East Midlands Airport, I could barely believe that we were actually about to set off on the trip after so much looking forward to it. Touching down in Venice at 9pm, we hastily jumped in the hire car and drove north, fuelled by large slices of pizza. Once in Cortina d’Ampezzo, the main town in the valley, we headed straight for the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the massif containing the Cima Grande, one of the six great north faces of the Alps. Bivvying out at the car park, on the first day we set off up the Fabjan, a nice 11 pitch HVS warm up climb on the south face of the Punta Frida. Suitably adjusted to the style of climbing, the odd loose hold and with the weather set fair we set our sights on the Brandler for the following morning.  At 4:30am, our alarms went off and wolfing down some pricey apfel strudel bought at the Auronzo Hut, we set off for the base of the route in the dark. It turned out to be an outstanding outing, despite us having to follow two other parties. The opening seven pitches whet your appetite for the main meat of the 7a/7a+ overhanging corners for which the route is famous. Ben pulled out a brilliant lead of what I thought was the crux of the climb, a wet overhanging chimney crack, the second 7a pitch. It was my lead for the overhanging 7a+ stamina crack and I sprinted up this, clipping everything in sight. Then, after a tricky 6c+ pitch, the upper pitches eased off and we were soon on the ringband contemplating the descent.

South Side of the Marmolada Group from the Passo Giau

So, having bagged the Brandler on the second day of a two week holiday, what was next? Ben and I had talked reservedly of trying the Fish (or ‘Il Pesce’ in Italian) on the massive south face of the Marmolada but mentioned it in somewhat hushed tones due to its reputation for boldness, loose rock and hard 7b+ slab climbing. It had been recommended to us before our trip by Ben’s friend Eric Svab as being one of the best routes he had done in twenty years of climbing, The fact that Hansjörg Auer had free soloed it in April 2007 equipped with only boots and a chalk bag in what must be one of the most audacious solos ever accomplished only added to the mystique.  Extensive discussions ensued at base camp in Cortina on our rest day, aided by extremely strong coffee. We resolved to attempt the face as soon as the weather allowed. With the forecast looking very good for the next few days we drove over the Passo Giau to the south side of the mountain and began the one and a half hour slog up to the Falier Hut below the south face. As we arrived, we were greeted by some booming country music from a live band echoing around the mountain walls. It turned out that a local band had been choppered in for that Sunday afternoon. There was a large audience sitting in the sunshine on the hut terrace and plenty of beer was being consumed.

Ted approaching the Malga Ombretta refuge below the south face of the Marmolada en route to the Falier Refuge

Ted studying the Fish route with monocular the afternoon of the day before our ascent of the Fish

The Falier Refuge, the hut we stayed in before ascending the Fish

We were tempted to join in the fun but we had a route to climb so set off up the path to the base of the face, to stash our gear for the following morning. This is a trick we found very useful on the Brandler, as much for mental preparation as anything else. If you have seen where the first pitch starts and put your harness and gear next to the first belay, it puts your mind at rest and allows you to focus on the job in hand, without worrying about not finding where the route starts in the early morning, when any delay could be critical. We had a detailed topo from UP magazine (see below) which suggested scrambling in on a ledge system to the belay at the end of the normal pitch 2. We elected to do this as the first five pitches were meant to be very loose and not recommended. This left only three loose pitches before the start of the slab proper.

Dawn at the first belay of the Fish

Looking out from the start of the Fish

·

Ben at the second belay of the Fish

Ted leading the 5^th pitch (French 5c or E2 5b) 

·       A meal in the hut allowed us to meet the other teams of climbers setting off for routes the next day. There were three teams heading off to do Tempi Moderni, a 28 pitch E4 to the left of our route but we were the only party from the hut intent on the Fish. After six hours snoozing in the hut dorms, the alarm went off at 4:30am and it was action stations. After gulping down our coffee and porridge, without any gear to carry up to the base, we were quickly racking up by our stash of gear from the previous day after a 45 minute walk uphill. Ben set off up the first pitch in the half light, a French 6a flake/crack. The UP magazine description recommended linking pitches together to save time so we became used to doing mammoth 50m+ pitches. With Ben having runout 55m of rope, I started seconding up fairly loose terrain and was soon joining him at the belay. I then set off a 60m French 5a pitch. I knew it would be loose and so had prepared myself for the worst. Happily the reality was not as bad as I had feared and bar the odd bit of scree perched precariously on protruding ledges and some flaky holds, the whole pitch was not much harder than E1 5a. After Ben’s French 5b pitch that followed it became fully light to reveal a clear, sunny day; we were now warmed up and psyched for the much harder slab pitches to come. I led off up a 60m French 5c dihedral that was about E2 5b but had to be pretty sparing on the gear seeing how long the pitch was. Unfortunately, I belayed 4m below the true belay, a stuck hex, on a good peg but that did not stop us keeping on the right line as Ben headed up the first true pitch on the famous slab, a long, wandering and technical 6b+ pitch with many threads.

Ben seconding the 5^th pitch (French 5c or E2 5b)

Ted leading the 7^th pitch (French 6a+ or E2 5c) of the Fish

Ted seconding the 8^th pitch (French 7a+ or E4/5 6b)

Ted seconding the 8^th pitch (French 7a+ or E4/5 6b)

By the next 6a+ pitch we were becoming used to the style of climbing which could not have been more different from the Brandler. There were many in situ kevlar threads to clip with additional nut and cam placements. The pockets were pretty positive with the emphasis being on good technique to enable the ground to be covered as quickly and efficiently as possible. By this time, we had been joined by a German girl and an Argentinian chap, both guides or aspirant guides who had walked up from the valley floor that morning. Unfortunately, I overshot the belay of my pitch by about 8m due to a confusing topo description but it didn’t matter as, aided by the knowledge of the Argentinian, who had been on the route eight years previously, Ben was able to downclimb and traverse to the right before attacking the first tricky pitch, a slabby 7a+. With the benefit of hindsight it seems like I had followed the pegs on the line used by people intent on aiding the 7a+ bit, which is different, and more direct, to the free line.

Ted leading the 10^th pitch (French 7b or E5/6 6b)

Suddenly the mist came down eerily around us and it became pretty cold even with all of our layers on. We had both taken a thermal and a soft shell plus one other outer layer and it was all I could do to keep the blood pumping by kicking my legs and punching the air while belaying. While following the 7a+ (equating to E4/5 6b), I knew we were in for some more testing climbing as it was very thin and balancy, although fortunately well protected by in situ pegs and optional cams. The next pitch was a nice 30m 6b+ (or about E3 6a), and which we could have linked into the previous 7a+ had I not gone astray on the previous pitch. Once at the belay, I looked up at the blank, slabby 7b groove above me, a photo of which graces the front cover of the Marmolada guide, and knew that this was where the real business began. It was my lead so without delay, I set off on what I knew would be a demanding lead. It began easily enough on large well spaced pockets with some respectable runouts but soon the pockets blanked out and the rock became smooth, punctuated by some very thin seams.  I clipped a chunky peg bashed downwards into a large pocket and then slightly higher an in situ tri-cam, with an unfortunately frayed sling attached and then contemplated the next moves. Apparently, you used to be able to aid this section but a small peg in one of the seams snapped off relatively recently, making the precarious move obligatory. I crammed my fingers into the crucial vertical slot and smeared my feet on the rough slab, running it out a few feet above the tri-cam. Next thing I knew, my fingers were sinking into a bomber pocket above and I knew I had done it. I linked the next 6c+ pitch into the 7b to make a massive 60m pitch of E5/E6 6b, at that time the hardest on-sight trad lead I had ever achieved and in one of the most stunning positions imaginable! The 6c+ was quite difficult in its own right involving a couple of mono pockets. Thankfully, as I had to keep reminding myself, it was only a slab! This led into the legendary fish niche, a niche high on the face that resembles the profile of a whale and gives the route its name.

Ted leading the 10^th pitch (French 7b or E5/6 6b)

     The sun had now dispersed the mist and I was burning up in all my layers, my feet in agony due to the heat and having to stand on my toes for so long, despite my comfortable baggy shoes. I had a muesli bar and a gel to boost my energy levels and stripped off a few layers. A helicopter containing what looked like tourists suddenly came buzzing by to within 15m of the niche and I gave it a thumbs up to signal that we were fine. It was now approaching 3pm so we had no time to lose. The 7a pitch leaving the fish was like space walking, a long, weaving 35m E4/E5 on sinker pockets with athletic pulls between flakes and many threads. Ben now had the crux of the route, a short 7b+ pitch with a difficult series of pockets leading into some hard slab moves. He destroyed the pocket moves and then stood readying himself before the key slab section. I soon knew that he had done it judging from the triumphant roar that echoed down to me at the belay! (It turned out that the notorious runout that we had been told about on this pitch was far less scary than expected, making this into perhaps an easy E6 pitch). Seconding with a 2kg bum bag was no picnic but with Ben’s beta, I followed without incident and realised that we had only one more 7th grade pitch followed by a short 6c before the final 6c+ crack.

Ted seconding the 12^th pitch (French 7b+ or E6 6b) 

      The next ‘pendulum’ pitch was given 7a or 7a+ on different topos but they all said that you had to climb up to a peg and then reverse back down again before traversing left to the base of a crack. Apparently the famous alpinist Marco Lukic had failed on his on-sight of the route on this section after freeing all the preceding hard pitches! With this in mind, I headed leftwards at what I guessed to be the right level. I plugged in a TCU in a vertical crack and then headed even further leftwards, leaving the peg above me to my right. Any fall now would result in a substantial (but dead safe) swing to the right. I pawed desperately at the blank slab above me, teetering with my feet in small pockets. With things having gone so well up to this point, I was determined not to lose the on-sight of the Fish. After ten minutes of pondering and false starts, I resolved to attack the slab, seeing that traversing even further below looked equally as hard, if not more difficult than the moves I was facing. Uncertain that I had chosen the easiest traverse line, I committed to the moves with some trepidation. With my feet tiring and a sense of urgency spurring me on as it was now 6pm, I cranked up on a shallow index finger mono and smeared my feet up the grey limestone. Thankfully, my feet stuck and I eased myself leftwards onto some sloping shelves and then eventually some decent pockets. All that remained was a romp up the strenuous layback cracks above to the belay.

Ted seconding the 12^th pitch (French 7b+ or E6 6b)

      Ben followed shortly afterwards and we now realised that an on-sight ascent was within our grasp. Ben fired off the short 6c undercut traverse pitch, unfortunately marred by some dodgy rock and then I was below the base of the final 6c+, our fourteenth pitch of hard climbing. Exhausted, I knew that I had to summon up my reserves for one last push. It is amazing what you can achieve when your back is to the wall and I battled up this steep E3/E4 pitch as quickly as possible, clipping the many in situ pegs. Topping out onto the large ledge at the end of the major difficulties was an amazing feeling knowing that we had freed one of the most famous rock routes in the Alps. When Ben joined me it was 7:30pm and only one hour of daylight remained. The Argentinian and German party had sensibly retreated one pitch after the Fish niche due to lack of time. 

Ted leading the 13^th pitch (French 7a/+ or E5 6b)

Most parties intent on only spending one day on the route abseil down from this ledge and avoid carrying bivvy gear as it marks the end of the major difficulties. Twelve pitches of sometimes loose and often wet walls and chimneys do lead to the summit but a bivouac on the ledge or near the summit is virtually guaranteed as the last cable car down to the valley leaves at 4:30pm! The abseils are all fairly straight down but some use peg belays which are often on neighbouring routes so the difficulty of following this option should not be underestimated. We managed eight abseils most of the way down the face before darkness fell and we had to get our headtorches out. The last two abseils took up by far the most time as it was difficult finding the right belays in the dark but by 9pm we were at the foot of the face and running back down to the hut. Headtorches had been shone at us from the hut after darkness fell but we had not been in any difficulties so had not signalled back. The hut guardian Dante always looks out for climbers in trouble and there were some flashing headtorches near the top of Tempi Moderni from a party about to bivvy out. Routes on the south face of the Marmolada are long and this is a frequent occurrence, there not being enough hours in the day for all but the fastest of parties to top out and descend in one push.  Collecting our stashed gear at the hut, we thanked the people there for watching out for us and headed down to the valley. By 11:30pm we were safely ensconced in a bar in Alleghe wolfing down pizzas and supping on large beers to celebrate what for me at least had been one of my best days of alpine climbing ever. 

South Side of the Marmolada Group from the Passo Giau

Recommended Topos/ Guides

·         ‘Dolomites: West and East’, Ron James, Alpine Club 2005

·         ‘The Marmolada’, Maurizio Giordani, Versante Sud, 2008

·         Planet Mountain topo: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/scheda.php?id_tipologia=38&lang=eng&comefrom=search&id_itinerario=374&gruppo=&cima=&nome=  

·         Up Magazine2004/05 ‘Mythical Routes’ section

Recommended Rack

·         One set of wires (sizes #3-9)

·         Four small/medium aliens or TCU’s

·         Camelot yellow and blue (blue not essential), or equivalent sizes

·         16-18 quickdraws

Other routes to do on the South Face

·         Don Quixote VI

·         Vinatzer/Messner combination VI+

·         Tempi Moderni 7a

·         Specchio di Sara 7c

·         End of Mystery 8a

·         Catthedrale 8a+

Yorkshire limestone 2021 - Reflections on the sport climbing season

Now seems to be as good a time as any to look back on the year that is swifly coming to an end as the crags get wetter and the temps drop. Most people bar the hardy few have now retreated into training mode. Its time for a much needed power topup or some well deserved rest and recuperation. Time to dust down that training plan perhaps?

2021 will be remembered as one of the better sport climbing seasons we have had in recent years. The crags started off dry in April and bar a cold spell in May, that continued right up until early August when the first serious deluges rolled through. These proved to be no more than temporary setbacks for the serious Kilnsey redpointers, resulting in some minor adjustments to that all-important redpointing schedule. For those with time on their hands, this summer was the time to bring it all together and make the push to that elusive next grade or bag that pesky long term project. 

The Yorkshire Ripper 8b (Credit: Tim Eley)

For crag regulars, it was excellent to see the influx of recruits to the ranks as some new faces were welcomed to the scene with everybody keen to share beta and psyche. One of the best bits of having a regular attendance record at Kilnsey is the social scene and saying hi to a friendly face, especially after the recent lockdowns, The Yorkshire Limestone Facebook group was a great source of partners for many without a regular belayer or failing that, just rocking up and offering to belay resulted in a catch being secured on many an occasion - who knows just how many spontaneous sends resulted which otherwise wouldn't have happened? I will try and remember some of the many, great ascents that took place at Malham and Kilnsey although with the disclaimer that there were so many that I will inevitably miss out a few - if I have erred, answers on a postcard to give somebody I have missed their rightful place in the pantheon! (Crag coverage limited to the Big 2 crags because that's where I went most of summer!)

Working the crux on Sabotage 8c+ at Malha (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

To sum up some of the high end action at Kilnsey, Northern Lights 9a got sent twice by Will Bosi and Josh Ibbertson. I was lucky enough to witness Will's ascent and saw Josh get very close on multiple ocassions before he did it. It was amazing to see these high level performances and the sheer level of effort and dedication on show. From a personal perspective, my saga with Progress 8c+ finally came to an end in June, which felt strange to be finally able to move on and bring a multi-year siege to a close. It was awesome to see Josh, Eder Lomba de Ipina and Pete Dawson all clip the chains too and share the new kneebar beta that emerged, which proved to get the key to getting over the line, margins between success and failure being wafer thin at your personal limit. 

Northern Exposure 8b+ at Kilnsey (Credit: Andy Gardner)

Alex Barrows succeeded on Preposterous Tales a new 9a through the big roof at Kilnsey; its great to see that the crag is still yielding new lines, it looks like a funky piece of very difficult climbing  through a gob smacking feature. Tim Palmer, Josh Ibbertson, Pete Dawson and me managed to send the tricky Northern Exposure Part 1 8b+ after several years of this nearly forgotten testpiece lying fallow. The extension to this line, Northern Star 9a/+, Steve McClure's superroute from 2007 did see some attention with a crimp or two parting company with the crag most inopportunely back in June, rendering it likely harder. One can only hope that the line is still possible, although with the dismaying levels of strength displayed by today's up and coming young climbers, perhaps it is no bad thing that there are testpieces out there still to be freshly claimed.

Several well deserved ticks of Urgent Action were bagged, both male and female, including by Thea Cameron. It was certainly the year to lay your North Buttress project to rest with the usual worries of impending seepage dispelled for weeks at a time. Rhoslyn Frugtniet swifly despatched Full Tilt 8b, along with several others with some strong teams laying siege to the full line, True North 8c. I am sure next year there will be many clipping those elusive chains! The Yorkshire Ripper 8b received a rare ascent from yours truly which will hopefully lead to more from other climbers. Half the battle seems to be cleaning up dusty holds and getting on the thing, which leads to others showing an interest and helping to clean up the line still further. Indian Summer was sent by Josh Ibberton and his dad James (if I am not mistaken) and Neil Mawson with Tom Newberry adding All Out 8c to his ticklist to round out the action down this end of the crag. 

Mandella 8a+ was sent by several parties including Tanya Meredith and Ella Russell, again a great tick for a dry summer, no better time to add this mega classic to your trophy cabinet! Bullet 8a+ proved popular with Naomi Buys, amongst others, succeeding on a well-deserved tick.

Victor Hugo 8b at Malham (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

Moving on to Malham, Eder Lomba de Ipina ticked Rainshadow 9a and Batman 9a/+ in the Spring, as did Josh Ibbertson and Toby Roberts, more recently in the autumn. There were a few ascents of Bat Route 8c, John Lawson sending it in the Spring and Tom Frost ticking it stylishly in September. Jim Hulbert ticked The Great Escape 8b+, the link of Cry Freedom into Predator with impeccable timing before the Autumn rains. Many worthy ticks of classics at a slightly lower grade took place. These were too numerous to mention by name suffice to say that many elated redpointers toasted their success in the Listers post-send on GBH, Zoolook, Austrian Oak and The Groove. The tough Victor Hugo 8b, the extension to Thriller 7c+ (above Consenting Adults 7a) got sent twice by Pete Dawson and I, leading to mutterings on a possible upgrade but I digress. 

Attempts on Sabotage 8c+ at Malham (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

Unfortunately, all good things come to an end and by early October, the crag was calling time on the season with some Autumn gales barrelling through and bringing some drastic seepage lines to the crag. My inroads into Sabotage 8c+, Neil Gresham's major extension to Predator will have to wait until next year after I invested a considerable number of sessions into the line from mid August through September. Rainman 9b may just hold out another year before the coveted second ascent, although I may yet have to correct this if last year's late ticks of Rainshadow by Josh and Toby are anything to go on! 

So, happy training everyone, enjoy some downtime from the stresses of redpointing and the at times full-on nature of being immersed in a long term project. 2022 may yet be your year!!

The last shakeout on Predator before the crux of Sabotage 8c+ (Credit: Tristan Roberts)

Progress!

Having recently climbed my 5 year project last month, Progress at Kilnsey, I have just been re-reading my previous blog posts about the route, which become something of a nemesis. Starting in 2017, they follow the process up until last year in some detail - hopefully useful to those planning their own campaign!

Reaching the 'Eyes' by the 5th bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla)

Success this year came from a number of factors, not least of which was the discovery of a new kneebar by the 6th bolt by Eder Lomba Lopez de Ipiña. I initially discounted this as I was so used to climbing quickly through the pumpy redpoint crux moves between the 6th and 8th bolts without even stopping to chalk and had done my 2nd bolt to top links in this manner. I also was concerned that the 4 extra handmoves required to climb into and out of the kneebar would add in more time on the rock and extra pump, despite the new opportunity to rest. However, after speaking to Josh Ibbertson who kindly shared his strategy with the kneebar (having sent the route the week previously), it became clear that it would be possible to climb straight into the long move up from the 6th bolt straight out of the kneebar cutting out some of these extra footmoves. Therefore, on balance, it was a no brainer for me to use the new rest. Why ignore a perfectly good kneebar?! My Youtube video of the climb (below) shows the discovery of the kneebar for any aspirant ascentionists:

                                    Video of the route 

Another factor in getting over the line this year was building my own board in January during the last lockdown. In February and March, I set some pretty savage problems on dowel pinches and basic birch ply grips which certainly helped to maintain power levels while the walls were closed. Once I got back on the route in late April, I was initially worried that I hadn't got the strength for the crux as I couldn't do the moves from the floor but this was just a lack of recruitment and just like last year, after a few sessions back on the rig, the muscle memory kicked in and all my board training paid off. Before long, I was climbing back up to the eyes by the 5th bolt, an 'entry level' link which is pretty much mandatory prior to getting in some proper redpoint burns. Shortly after this, the crag got one of its regular drenchings and North Buttress was out of commission for a couple of weeks in May with some unseasonably cold weather to boot.

Starting the crux at the 2nd bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla)

As soon as June rolled around, I got back into gear and with the arrival of warmer weather, managed to do the 3rd to top link and could feel the project coming together. I was about to go for the 2nd to top link after 2 rest days as it was quite warm but a crag regular persuaded me to go from the floor instead. I'm glad I did as I got up to just below the 7th bolt before I even knew about the new kneebar - it was on!

Shortly after this good go, the 6th bolt kneebar was discovered and after commiting to using it, I experimented with different rest times to allow for optimal recovery. From the 6th bolt to the top is about 8a I would say but you have already climbed 8b+/8c to get there so you will not have much left in the tank...unless you are ultrafit and/or strong! On a really good go which was filmed by Marsha Balaeva (starting at 6:05 in my video) after one rest day, I managed my second best ever go from the ground in excellent, breezy conditions getting to just below the 8th bolt before the terminal pump kicked in and I was summarily ejected from the rock!

Tough moves at the 3rd bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla)

Of course, there is no direct comparision to my high point in 2019 when I reached 2 moves further (but without the kneebar) as the route is now undoubtedly more manageable with the new shakeout for those able to reach the 6th bolt. I guess I will never get to find out if I could climb it without the kneebar and get the satifaction of smashing through my old highpoint. However, this is tempered with the realisation that I had discovered a new shakeout at the end of the season last year at the 6th bolt at exactly the same place as the kneebar (see my post from last year) which allows a similar recovery for the right arm, allowing you to refresh it for the long move. So, in reality I would never have adopted my 'extreme sprint' approach (with only one chalk of each hand at the eyes) again which made getting the perfect go with the required minimum 2 rest days and decent conditions very tricky indeed. I am happy to have ticked the route using the knee which allows me to move on and do some much needed new climbing. Regarding the grade, comparing it to others around this difficulty level, I am confident that the kneebar, whilst making the route more approachable, does not bring the route down to 8c, just a little lower in the 8c+ grade. 

Another view of the crux by the 3rd bolt (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

After my close go, I rested up 2 days and was confident of taking it down but was torn as to whether to go for it that day as it was pretty warm and lacking a decent breeze. Alternatively, I could come back the following day when conditions would be likely better. Luckily Adam Lincoln convinced me to have at least one burn and after my initial bolt to bolt go and an extra warmup pitch (to kill some time while it cooled down slightly) I found myself setting off on my attempt.

Reaching better holds at the 6th bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla)

The power of the psyche of other climbers is a big factor in getting up rock climbs as I found out over the next 5 minutes as Eder and Josh shouted up their encouragement. The redpoint went well up to the 6th bolt despite the heat as I felt stonger than ever and even not catching the pinch quite right with my left hand on the redpoint crux below the 6th bolt (due to the heat affecting grip on the smooth, rounded sidepull) didn't matter. Relaxing into the kneebar, I decided to allow myself two shakes of each arm only and stayed there 30 seconds rather than the 45 seconds of the previous session. The kneebar is pretty marginal for me at least and is definitely not hands off. At a certain point you start to 'lose more than you gain'! 

The traverse moves between the 7th and 8th clips (Credit: Joe Crolla)

The moves up past the 7th clip went well and before I knew it, I was moving right and up towards to the 8th clip and my highpoint. My fingers bit into the right hand undercut and I stepped my left foot down to a low foothold as I had worked out the last few sessions. This beta tweak added an extra footmove and a few more seconds on the rock but thankfully removed the left foot pop which had been the demise of several previous redpoints. I felt fresh enough for a cheeky adjust with my right hand on the undercut and moving up to the better holds I knew I was in with a good shout. Climbing past my highpoint and reaching the undercuts where I could reach down and clip the 8th bolt (using a long slip blu-tacked to the rock for ease of clipping) was an amazing feeling. The top kneebar slotted in ideally and I was able to recover well for 2 minutes before steeling myself for the top roof. Summoning every ounce of remaining power in my body I threw everything at these strenuous, reachy moves. Standing up into the big left hand undercut and grabbing the big pinch at the end of the difficulties, I could barely believe I was about to clip the chains and finally close this chapter in my climbing. Thanks to everybody who has belayed me over the past 5 years. For those of you with long term projects, stick at it, work hard and success will come!

Send meal with the Manchester crew!

Power Ranger 8b+ and Projects Update

I hope you're all making the best of the changes this year has brought to our climbing and training plans. I like many others have had to forego the usual plans to visit Spain and Font around this time of year but never fear, now a vaccine has been found, with any luck we'll all be able to get back out there sooner rather than later. 

Progress 8c+ (lower crux) attempt from 2018 (Credit: Richard Waterton)

The silver lining of the confinement of many of us to UK crags has been the increased focus on home projects. Over the summer, I made some big efforts to get Progress at Kilnsey done but it has eluded me for another year due to the late start in June and some predictably wet late summer connies. Still, I can take comfort from some positives in that I found some improved and more efficient beta and even a new rest by the 6th bolt which I had previously discounted which may prove to be the key to unlocking the world of pump which this rig turns into once you get beyond the 'eyes' which is the first staging post at the 5th bolt. Here is a video of my best attempt (not using the new rest) back in August which was only 5 hand moves off my previous year's high point just shy of the 8th bolt. I was more consistent this year, getting the 7th bolt clipped on around 5 or more occasions before the traverse right to the 8th where the climbing finally starts to ease. Roll on next year for some more attempts, the siege continues! 

My best attempt on Progress 8c+ in August 

Once Progress got wet, I decided to investigate Northern Exposure, the short Steve Dunning 8b+ to the left, which I believe has not had an ascent since Adam Ondra's back in 2011 as part of Northern Star 9a/+ despite some attempts over the years. Rumours of broken holds abounded but I was stoked to find that its still possible and that a slightly crumbled sidepull by the 3rd bolt does not affect the clip or crux moves significantly. I put some good burns into this thing and got close but again was foiled by the approaching end of the season and some persistently wet pockets. I tried my best to dry them with kitchen roll but my increasingly desparate attempts to eke out further redpoints had to face reality at the end of October. Here is a clip of my best go - I have since found better beta which makes the sequence higher percentage than the jump method I was using. Again, bring on next season for a continuation of the campaign! 

My closest go on Northern Exposure 8b+ in September 

Happily, the season was to yield some route success for me in the form of Power Ranger 8b+ at Malham, Tony Mitchell's quality extension to Wasted Youth 7b+. I had tried this off and on for the last 2 years whenever I went to the Cove but never with any consistency as I was always so engaged with Progress. This year, I devoted some more sustained attempts to it once Progress got wet and was rewarded with the discovery of an improved sequence through the crux bulge and a good kneebar resting strategy at the Wasted Youth belay which was the key to doing it in a oner. Eder showed me another kneebar just before the move over the bulge where it is just possible to take your hands off if you have a core of steel (!) but this was actually more useful to clip the crux draw off of rather than rest. (Its a pain wearing 2 pads climbing but worth it if you can get up it!) Several redpoints battered the route into submission slowly and it was a rewarding moment to be embarking on the upper wall knowing that all I had to do was avoid fluffing these still tricky 7b+ moves before reaching the final hands off scoop up and right of the final bolt where the route finishes. Here is my video of the send go:

Power Ranger 8b+ in October 

The route did not have a proper lower off so I decided to sort this out as there is nothing worse than a route without a clearly defined end point. So I went back with Jim and slammed a new belay into the scoop (as well as sorting out the position of the Connect 4 belay and crux clip). I also went back on a second occasion to rebolt Snidely Whiplash 7a+ which will form a logical continuation to Power Ranger leading to the top ledge for any psyched future candidate! No extra grade for this project but the kudos of taking the route to the top like on Overjustified to the left. I even spotted a gap to the right of Snidely which I equipped and which will start from the new Power Ranger belay - one for next year. I'm pleased to have found my first UK new route project that I bolted myself, it might be 7a+ or impossible, time will tell. It may be in a fairly inaccessible location requiring an abseil approach but its still new rock waiting to be climbed, can't wait to try it in 2021!

Finishing the crux sequence on Power Ranger 8b+ (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

Another view of the crux sequence on Power Ranger 8b+ (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

Post send pic (Credit: Simon Durbridge)

I leave you with some thoughts on my current project at the Tor, Devolution 8c. Here is a vid of my best link go starting from both feet in the lower break and one hand on the block. I have decided to divert my energies into trying this rather than Evolution as the lower roof is so hard (around Font 8A from the ground) that even getting over this is proving to be a major challenge, never mind linking into the top 8b wall! Its worth being realistic at a certain point and its been fun focusing on the roof alone this year with the comparitively easy top wall of Chimes (up which this link finishes) not adding too much to the grade equation. I've been battling with a split tip since doing this link in November and getting some good redpoints in from the ground. Now even this has got wet, it could be time to train!

Devolution 8c , Raven Tor - best link go

So, keep up the psyche and crushing on home turf. There will be plenty of opportunity to head out to the promised land of Espana or Font I hope in the time ahead! 

Lancashire Bouldering Update

Hi folks, its a been a while since my last post but here goes with a little update for you. Like everybody else, its been tough during this pandemic without access to any climbing walls to train properly. Still, I've made the best of it and after a lockdown spent on my beastmaker and rudimentary sideways campus workout above my balcony door (!) I finally managed to make it out to the nearest local crags I could find to get back to rock climbing.

Learning to climb in the mid 90's, I first started out trad climbing in quarries such as the Wiltons, Denham, Anglesarke, Parbold and Brownstones and it has been fun going back to these places with over 20 years experience and fresh eyes. It has been a bit of a trip down memory lane at times thinking back to old days out. But enough of the past, with no board to train on, I was sorely in need of some steep athletic bouldering to shock the system and introduce some dynamic moves into what had become quite a formulaic experience doing max hangs and pullups every few days.

I have managed to get on video quite a few of the problems I have climbed over the last 3 months since lockdown ended in Lancashire since purchasing the excellent bouldering guidebook by Robin Mueller. I started out going out tentatively as lockdown had given a wierd feeling that maybe you shouldn't be going out but at the end of the day Boris had given exercising in the outdoors the nod as had the BMC so it was fair game. As the Peak District was off the agenda initially as we were meant to be staying local, I stuck with Lancashire and I'm glad I did. It has been refreshing to not have more than 35 - 40 mins of driving to do compared to over an hour going to the Peak or even longer to North Wales or Yorkshire. It brought it home to me how much driving I have actually done over the years in pursuit of this sport!

My ticklist of climbs over Font 7C post lockdown is below and I was psyched to get a first ascent of a sit start to a Mike Adams 7C+ at Parbold 'Danger Dusk', which I named 'Danger! High Voltage', which I have given 8A (repeats needed to confirm). The name is something of a misnomer as there is no danger involved as its finishes at around 12 foot up matching on the last hold before the wall blanks out above.

Font 8A

Rhamnousa Sitter (Wilton 4) (SECOND ASCENT)
Danger! High Voltage (Parbold Quarry) (FIRST ASCENT)

Font 7C+

Nemesister (Wilton 4)
Rhamnousa (Wilton 4)
Danger Dusk (Parbold Quarry)

Font 7C

Clint Barton (Cadshaw Quarry) (SECOND ASCENT)
Copernicus (Cadshaw Quarry)
Laminar Flow (Wilton 2)
The Starship Wilton Direct (Wilton 3)
Nemesis (Wilton 4)
Meeting Palms (Ousel's Nest)
No Tome for Losers (Baby Denham)
Legs Not Included (Healey Nab)
Dawid's Reach (Lester Mill Quarry)
Blister (Lester Mill Quarry)
Grasshopper LH (Stronstrey Bank) (FIRST ASCENT)
The Noisy Cricket (Stronstrey Bank)
Hellebore Sit (Stronstrey Bank)

Here are some of the best video's I have put together from my Lancashire sessions, there are more on my Youtube Channel, I hope you enjoy! 

                                                                                      
Its been awesome to be able to get some of that bouldering snap back climbing in what has been an exceptionally dry spring (although at the time of writing it is at risk of degenerating into a soggy summer!) Having not trained on a 45 degree board for over 3 months I was worried that my power levels and technique on steep rock might have suffered but getting out regularly to the quarries, I have been surprised that I actually feel perhaps stronger than ever on real rock. There is really no substitute for trying hard on real outdoor problems and you get a real sense of momentum with a few ticks under your belt. The moonboard can wait!

Now for the tough transition back to outdoor routing. I have been back at Kilnsey since this was permitted back in May and not having tied in since my trip to Margalef over New Year over 4 months previously, 50 for 5 felt way too pumpy at first. Happily, stamina has now come back to a semblance of what it was and I'm getting stuck back in to Progress, my project on North Buttress which I got close on last year. Lets pray for a dry July and August on UK crags seeing as nobody will be jetting off to the continent just yet - have fun out there!

Stronstrey Bank sunset