Progress!

Having recently climbed my 5 year project last month, Progress at Kilnsey, I have just been re-reading my previous blog posts about the route, which become something of a nemesis. Starting in 2017, they follow the process up until last year in some detail - hopefully useful to those planning their own campaign!

Reaching the 'Eyes' by the 5th bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla)

Success this year came from a number of factors, not least of which was the discovery of a new kneebar by the 6th bolt by Eder Lomba Lopez de Ipiña. I initially discounted this as I was so used to climbing quickly through the pumpy redpoint crux moves between the 6th and 8th bolts without even stopping to chalk and had done my 2nd bolt to top links in this manner. I also was concerned that the 4 extra handmoves required to climb into and out of the kneebar would add in more time on the rock and extra pump, despite the new opportunity to rest. However, after speaking to Josh Ibbertson who kindly shared his strategy with the kneebar (having sent the route the week previously), it became clear that it would be possible to climb straight into the long move up from the 6th bolt straight out of the kneebar cutting out some of these extra footmoves. Therefore, on balance, it was a no brainer for me to use the new rest. Why ignore a perfectly good kneebar?! My Youtube video of the climb (below) shows the discovery of the kneebar for any aspirant ascentionists:

                                    Video of the route 

Another factor in getting over the line this year was building my own board in January during the last lockdown. In February and March, I set some pretty savage problems on dowel pinches and basic birch ply grips which certainly helped to maintain power levels while the walls were closed. Once I got back on the route in late April, I was initially worried that I hadn't got the strength for the crux as I couldn't do the moves from the floor but this was just a lack of recruitment and just like last year, after a few sessions back on the rig, the muscle memory kicked in and all my board training paid off. Before long, I was climbing back up to the eyes by the 5th bolt, an 'entry level' link which is pretty much mandatory prior to getting in some proper redpoint burns. Shortly after this, the crag got one of its regular drenchings and North Buttress was out of commission for a couple of weeks in May with some unseasonably cold weather to boot.

Starting the crux at the 2nd bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla)

As soon as June rolled around, I got back into gear and with the arrival of warmer weather, managed to do the 3rd to top link and could feel the project coming together. I was about to go for the 2nd to top link after 2 rest days as it was quite warm but a crag regular persuaded me to go from the floor instead. I'm glad I did as I got up to just below the 7th bolt before I even knew about the new kneebar - it was on!

Shortly after this good go, the 6th bolt kneebar was discovered and after commiting to using it, I experimented with different rest times to allow for optimal recovery. From the 6th bolt to the top is about 8a I would say but you have already climbed 8b+/8c to get there so you will not have much left in the tank...unless you are ultrafit and/or strong! On a really good go which was filmed by Marsha Balaeva (starting at 6:05 in my video) after one rest day, I managed my second best ever go from the ground in excellent, breezy conditions getting to just below the 8th bolt before the terminal pump kicked in and I was summarily ejected from the rock!

Tough moves at the 3rd bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla)

Of course, there is no direct comparision to my high point in 2019 when I reached 2 moves further (but without the kneebar) as the route is now undoubtedly more manageable with the new shakeout for those able to reach the 6th bolt. I guess I will never get to find out if I could climb it without the kneebar and get the satifaction of smashing through my old highpoint. However, this is tempered with the realisation that I had discovered a new shakeout at the end of the season last year at the 6th bolt at exactly the same place as the kneebar (see my post from last year) which allows a similar recovery for the right arm, allowing you to refresh it for the long move. So, in reality I would never have adopted my 'extreme sprint' approach (with only one chalk of each hand at the eyes) again which made getting the perfect go with the required minimum 2 rest days and decent conditions very tricky indeed. I am happy to have ticked the route using the knee which allows me to move on and do some much needed new climbing. Regarding the grade, comparing it to others around this difficulty level, I am confident that the kneebar, whilst making the route more approachable, does not bring the route down to 8c, just a little lower in the 8c+ grade. 

Another view of the crux by the 3rd bolt (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

After my close go, I rested up 2 days and was confident of taking it down but was torn as to whether to go for it that day as it was pretty warm and lacking a decent breeze. Alternatively, I could come back the following day when conditions would be likely better. Luckily Adam Lincoln convinced me to have at least one burn and after my initial bolt to bolt go and an extra warmup pitch (to kill some time while it cooled down slightly) I found myself setting off on my attempt.

Reaching better holds at the 6th bolt (Credit: Joe Crolla)

The power of the psyche of other climbers is a big factor in getting up rock climbs as I found out over the next 5 minutes as Eder and Josh shouted up their encouragement. The redpoint went well up to the 6th bolt despite the heat as I felt stonger than ever and even not catching the pinch quite right with my left hand on the redpoint crux below the 6th bolt (due to the heat affecting grip on the smooth, rounded sidepull) didn't matter. Relaxing into the kneebar, I decided to allow myself two shakes of each arm only and stayed there 30 seconds rather than the 45 seconds of the previous session. The kneebar is pretty marginal for me at least and is definitely not hands off. At a certain point you start to 'lose more than you gain'! 

The traverse moves between the 7th and 8th clips (Credit: Joe Crolla)

The moves up past the 7th clip went well and before I knew it, I was moving right and up towards to the 8th clip and my highpoint. My fingers bit into the right hand undercut and I stepped my left foot down to a low foothold as I had worked out the last few sessions. This beta tweak added an extra footmove and a few more seconds on the rock but thankfully removed the left foot pop which had been the demise of several previous redpoints. I felt fresh enough for a cheeky adjust with my right hand on the undercut and moving up to the better holds I knew I was in with a good shout. Climbing past my highpoint and reaching the undercuts where I could reach down and clip the 8th bolt (using a long slip blu-tacked to the rock for ease of clipping) was an amazing feeling. The top kneebar slotted in ideally and I was able to recover well for 2 minutes before steeling myself for the top roof. Summoning every ounce of remaining power in my body I threw everything at these strenuous, reachy moves. Standing up into the big left hand undercut and grabbing the big pinch at the end of the difficulties, I could barely believe I was about to clip the chains and finally close this chapter in my climbing. Thanks to everybody who has belayed me over the past 5 years. For those of you with long term projects, stick at it, work hard and success will come!

Send meal with the Manchester crew!

Power Ranger 8b+ and Projects Update

I hope you're all making the best of the changes this year has brought to our climbing and training plans. I like many others have had to forego the usual plans to visit Spain and Font around this time of year but never fear, now a vaccine has been found, with any luck we'll all be able to get back out there sooner rather than later. 

Progress 8c+ (lower crux) attempt from 2018 (Credit: Richard Waterton)

The silver lining of the confinement of many of us to UK crags has been the increased focus on home projects. Over the summer, I made some big efforts to get Progress at Kilnsey done but it has eluded me for another year due to the late start in June and some predictably wet late summer connies. Still, I can take comfort from some positives in that I found some improved and more efficient beta and even a new rest by the 6th bolt which I had previously discounted which may prove to be the key to unlocking the world of pump which this rig turns into once you get beyond the 'eyes' which is the first staging post at the 5th bolt. Here is a video of my best attempt (not using the new rest) back in August which was only 5 hand moves off my previous year's high point just shy of the 8th bolt. I was more consistent this year, getting the 7th bolt clipped on around 5 or more occasions before the traverse right to the 8th where the climbing finally starts to ease. Roll on next year for some more attempts, the siege continues! 

My best attempt on Progress 8c+ in August 

Once Progress got wet, I decided to investigate Northern Exposure, the short Steve Dunning 8b+ to the left, which I believe has not had an ascent since Adam Ondra's back in 2011 as part of Northern Star 9a/+ despite some attempts over the years. Rumours of broken holds abounded but I was stoked to find that its still possible and that a slightly crumbled sidepull by the 3rd bolt does not affect the clip or crux moves significantly. I put some good burns into this thing and got close but again was foiled by the approaching end of the season and some persistently wet pockets. I tried my best to dry them with kitchen roll but my increasingly desparate attempts to eke out further redpoints had to face reality at the end of October. Here is a clip of my best go - I have since found better beta which makes the sequence higher percentage than the jump method I was using. Again, bring on next season for a continuation of the campaign! 

My closest go on Northern Exposure 8b+ in September 

Happily, the season was to yield some route success for me in the form of Power Ranger 8b+ at Malham, Tony Mitchell's quality extension to Wasted Youth 7b+. I had tried this off and on for the last 2 years whenever I went to the Cove but never with any consistency as I was always so engaged with Progress. This year, I devoted some more sustained attempts to it once Progress got wet and was rewarded with the discovery of an improved sequence through the crux bulge and a good kneebar resting strategy at the Wasted Youth belay which was the key to doing it in a oner. Eder showed me another kneebar just before the move over the bulge where it is just possible to take your hands off if you have a core of steel (!) but this was actually more useful to clip the crux draw off of rather than rest. (Its a pain wearing 2 pads climbing but worth it if you can get up it!) Several redpoints battered the route into submission slowly and it was a rewarding moment to be embarking on the upper wall knowing that all I had to do was avoid fluffing these still tricky 7b+ moves before reaching the final hands off scoop up and right of the final bolt where the route finishes. Here is my video of the send go:

Power Ranger 8b+ in October 

The route did not have a proper lower off so I decided to sort this out as there is nothing worse than a route without a clearly defined end point. So I went back with Jim and slammed a new belay into the scoop (as well as sorting out the position of the Connect 4 belay and crux clip). I also went back on a second occasion to rebolt Snidely Whiplash 7a+ which will form a logical continuation to Power Ranger leading to the top ledge for any psyched future candidate! No extra grade for this project but the kudos of taking the route to the top like on Overjustified to the left. I even spotted a gap to the right of Snidely which I equipped and which will start from the new Power Ranger belay - one for next year. I'm pleased to have found my first UK new route project that I bolted myself, it might be 7a+ or impossible, time will tell. It may be in a fairly inaccessible location requiring an abseil approach but its still new rock waiting to be climbed, can't wait to try it in 2021!

Finishing the crux sequence on Power Ranger 8b+ (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

Another view of the crux sequence on Power Ranger 8b+ (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

Post send pic (Credit: Simon Durbridge)

I leave you with some thoughts on my current project at the Tor, Devolution 8c. Here is a vid of my best link go starting from both feet in the lower break and one hand on the block. I have decided to divert my energies into trying this rather than Evolution as the lower roof is so hard (around Font 8A from the ground) that even getting over this is proving to be a major challenge, never mind linking into the top 8b wall! Its worth being realistic at a certain point and its been fun focusing on the roof alone this year with the comparitively easy top wall of Chimes (up which this link finishes) not adding too much to the grade equation. I've been battling with a split tip since doing this link in November and getting some good redpoints in from the ground. Now even this has got wet, it could be time to train!

Devolution 8c , Raven Tor - best link go

So, keep up the psyche and crushing on home turf. There will be plenty of opportunity to head out to the promised land of Espana or Font I hope in the time ahead! 

Lancashire Bouldering Update

Hi folks, its a been a while since my last post but here goes with a little update for you. Like everybody else, its been tough during this pandemic without access to any climbing walls to train properly. Still, I've made the best of it and after a lockdown spent on my beastmaker and rudimentary sideways campus workout above my balcony door (!) I finally managed to make it out to the nearest local crags I could find to get back to rock climbing.

Learning to climb in the mid 90's, I first started out trad climbing in quarries such as the Wiltons, Denham, Anglesarke, Parbold and Brownstones and it has been fun going back to these places with over 20 years experience and fresh eyes. It has been a bit of a trip down memory lane at times thinking back to old days out. But enough of the past, with no board to train on, I was sorely in need of some steep athletic bouldering to shock the system and introduce some dynamic moves into what had become quite a formulaic experience doing max hangs and pullups every few days.

I have managed to get on video quite a few of the problems I have climbed over the last 3 months since lockdown ended in Lancashire since purchasing the excellent bouldering guidebook by Robin Mueller. I started out going out tentatively as lockdown had given a wierd feeling that maybe you shouldn't be going out but at the end of the day Boris had given exercising in the outdoors the nod as had the BMC so it was fair game. As the Peak District was off the agenda initially as we were meant to be staying local, I stuck with Lancashire and I'm glad I did. It has been refreshing to not have more than 35 - 40 mins of driving to do compared to over an hour going to the Peak or even longer to North Wales or Yorkshire. It brought it home to me how much driving I have actually done over the years in pursuit of this sport!

My ticklist of climbs over Font 7C post lockdown is below and I was psyched to get a first ascent of a sit start to a Mike Adams 7C+ at Parbold 'Danger Dusk', which I named 'Danger! High Voltage', which I have given 8A (repeats needed to confirm). The name is something of a misnomer as there is no danger involved as its finishes at around 12 foot up matching on the last hold before the wall blanks out above.

Font 8A

Rhamnousa Sitter (Wilton 4) (SECOND ASCENT)
Danger! High Voltage (Parbold Quarry) (FIRST ASCENT)

Font 7C+

Nemesister (Wilton 4)
Rhamnousa (Wilton 4)
Danger Dusk (Parbold Quarry)

Font 7C

Clint Barton (Cadshaw Quarry) (SECOND ASCENT)
Copernicus (Cadshaw Quarry)
Laminar Flow (Wilton 2)
The Starship Wilton Direct (Wilton 3)
Nemesis (Wilton 4)
Meeting Palms (Ousel's Nest)
No Tome for Losers (Baby Denham)
Legs Not Included (Healey Nab)
Dawid's Reach (Lester Mill Quarry)
Blister (Lester Mill Quarry)
Grasshopper LH (Stronstrey Bank) (FIRST ASCENT)
The Noisy Cricket (Stronstrey Bank)
Hellebore Sit (Stronstrey Bank)

Here are some of the best video's I have put together from my Lancashire sessions, there are more on my Youtube Channel, I hope you enjoy! 

                                                                                      
Its been awesome to be able to get some of that bouldering snap back climbing in what has been an exceptionally dry spring (although at the time of writing it is at risk of degenerating into a soggy summer!) Having not trained on a 45 degree board for over 3 months I was worried that my power levels and technique on steep rock might have suffered but getting out regularly to the quarries, I have been surprised that I actually feel perhaps stronger than ever on real rock. There is really no substitute for trying hard on real outdoor problems and you get a real sense of momentum with a few ticks under your belt. The moonboard can wait!

Now for the tough transition back to outdoor routing. I have been back at Kilnsey since this was permitted back in May and not having tied in since my trip to Margalef over New Year over 4 months previously, 50 for 5 felt way too pumpy at first. Happily, stamina has now come back to a semblance of what it was and I'm getting stuck back in to Progress, my project on North Buttress which I got close on last year. Lets pray for a dry July and August on UK crags seeing as nobody will be jetting off to the continent just yet - have fun out there!

Stronstrey Bank sunset

New Year Trip to Suirana

Hi guys just thought I would pen a few words about my recent 11 day trip to Suirana in Catalunya, Spain. I headed out on Boxing Day and arrived in the campsite late that night after a full day's travelling from Exeter via Liverpool airport that morning! I had rather optimistically decided to camp this trip but did not fully appreciate how cold it was going to be. My sleeping bag was a 4 season down one but was totally outclassed by the bone chilling cold experienced. Luckily some friends lent me a duvet and in combo with about 5 layers of clothing, it was doable. It was good to go back to basics and suffer a bit, makes you appreciate the finer things in life back home! Mucking in to cook in the miniscule cooking area every morning and night with all the fellow climbers was a good experience. Many a tuna/ pasta surprise was concocted in the cramped quarters to replenish diminished glycogen reserves. 

Migranya 8b - Credit: Charlie Egan

After a day or 2 to shake off Christmas excesses, I started to feel good on my main goal for this trip, Migranya 8b, a steep, powerful testpiece in Sector L'Olla at the head of the canyon past the famous La Rambla 9a+. I had tried this in 2013 but didn't quite have the level for it back then and despite being able to do all the moves OK, it had remained unticked since then. I learned from one of the locals that a left hand handhold on a crucial sloper in the lower half of the route had crumbled away since I had last tried the route so it was harder now into the bargain! After a couple of days reworking it and some beta tweaks, I started doing links from the end of the crux to the top and felt my route fitness suddenly come back after a period of mostly bouldering in November/ December.

The crux traverse on Migranya 

For once, on New Year's eve I resisted the temptation to go overboard and after a nice celebration in the bar where we sipped some beers, had a glass of cava each and ate 12 grapes in close succession on the stroke of midnight, I eschewed the dubious pleasures of a night out on the tiles in Cornudella and headed to bed at 1am. After a rest day of reading and chilling, the next day it was business time and I headed up to L'Olla with Alex to do battle.

Migranya - the crux

Video of Migranya

I had been close to getting through the crux move before New Year but a heel toe cam for my right foot seemed to be holding me back on the sloper move and I would always fall just short of sticking the next move. After a rethink, I decided to just use a heel rather than a cam as well and bingo, it worked. I stuck the crux and swung my way to the shakeout below the halfway roof. After a minute shaking out, I embarked on the still tricky exit moves which involve a crank on a 2 finger pocket and a dicey stab to a powerful gaston for the left hand. Thankfully, my time spent working the links on this section was not wasted and I got through this section to clip the chains. I was a good feeling to get this one ticked and be project free for a while.

Post send on Migranya

Send burgers and beers

The rest of the trip was spent getting some mileage in as it is sometimes nice not to have the pressure of a hard send to deal with and just enjoy some classics and there are certainly plenty around these parts! I had failed on the last move of the classic arete of Lua 7c 5 years previously due to a hold snapping and remember taking a huge whipper so it was cool to get revenge on this one. Also, Outback 7c+ was an enjoyable steep route which I remember sitting on every bolt of on a previous trip! I was close on the retro flash, falling off the final sequence but had to settle for a next go send.

Outback 7c+, Sector Negociee Credit: Buster Martin

After another rest day, I wanted to have a go at onsighting the classic Pren Nota 8a on Sector Negociee, which is a long steep wall with the crux near the top. I had a decent go but didn't get as far as the crux after trying to rest in a 'non-rest' before the real rest a bolt higher. I don't think I would have got through the next bit onsight anyway so was not too fussed to lob off. I hope to get better at on-sighting with more practice in the future as I have not done as much of it as I would have liked. No redpoint stress here, it all stays at the crag! I got the route next go which was great fun and a reminder of how pumpy these rigs can be - best not neglect the stamina training I reckon.

Sectors El Pati and Primavera

After a short rest, we headed back round to sector L'Olla to finish off the short but powerful Pota d'Elephant 7c+ which I had tried a couple of days previously. This has a couple of cranks on some pockets and some short lived tufas before a funky pull up onto the top slab. I then had a good flash go on Anemone Nipapa 8a but was stopped cold by the top crux moves, which are pretty hard for an 8a! I had another go just before it got dark but didn't have much left in the tank, one to come back for.

Pota d'Elephant 7c+

That evening in the bar, it was nice to hang out with the Brits I was lucky enough to spend time with this trip and sip a few beers. There was a good crew out this year, all supportive of each other and their projects, which is one of the awesome parts of trips like this.

Buster on Copa di Cigala 8a+

The next morning was my last so it was a slightly frenzied dash down to Can Piqui Puqui sector, which I had not yet visited this trip for a go on Gigololo 8a+, the right hand version of the ultra classic Anabolica 8a. Gigololo was another one I had tried 5 years previously. I sussed the crux moves briefly and had time for one burn but the exertions of the previous day were still in my arms and although getting through the roof onto the headwall, I got shut down by a big move from a pocket to a crimp. I don't feel too bad about this as I got back and had a peek at the 8a.nu comments on the route - apparently this move shut down a young Adam Ondra in 2006! I feel a little gutted nevertheless that I didn't have time to rest and have another burn but I had a plane to catch so leaving such thoughts til next time, I marched up the hill to my waiting hire car and before I knew it was cruising the coastal roads en route to Barca airport. Hasta luego Suirana!

Kilnsey Progress Update

Hi Folks, its been a little while since my last blog so I thought I would pen a few lines to let you know what I've been up to over the summer, now that it is but a distant memory! Since getting back from Oregon in early June, my objectives for the summer were to capitalise on fitness gained at Smith Rock to get stuck in to some projects from last year at my favourite crag in Yorkshire, the mighty Kilnsey! 

The first crux on Progress - (Credit: Marc Langley)

I decided to have a crack at Dalliance 8b+ first up as this was some unfinished business from last October when I had been stopped by seepage. After a few sessions back on it, it was satisfying to clip the chains after a beta tweak from Paul Bennett on the redpoint crux at the top, cheers Paul! Here is a clip of the send go, some closure at last was satisfying on this tricky number.

                                                         Dalliance 8b+

Next up was Progress 8c+ which is a considerably harder affair and one which I had invested many sessions in from May to July last year. I had got through to the redpoint crux above the 4th bolt and the 2 undercut 'eyes' quite a few times but had been shut down by the very powerful crux on flat sidepulls and pinches with poor foot smears that immediately follows. It must be 8b at least to get to the eyes so it is no small undertaking to crank your way up to a position where you can challenge the redpoint crux. This year, after a good start refreshing the moves and doing some good links from the 3rd bolt to the top, the heatwave struck in July. 

By the first bolt on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson)

I found it increasingly difficult to make any headway with the sweaty conditions that ensued and began to think that I must be weaker than last year as I couldn't get back up to the eyes. I did manage to do a key link from the 2nd bolt to the top, which I was pleased with but which is actually still some way from redpointing the entire thing. Thankfully, I needn't have worried about the lower section as in mid July on some odd cooler days I finally made it back there and after some beta tweaks courtesy of Jordan, began to get more reliably up to the 4th bolt.

Another view of the first crux on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson)

Unfortunately, by mid August, the annual monsoon rolled in and the crag turned into a waterfall - from heat to wetness in 24 hours! Such are the trials of the Kilnsey regular and the route was out of commission for more than 2 weeks. I took the opportunity to keep my bouldering tuned up by visiting Griff's Buttress and doing some crimpy limestone numbers like 'King of Lambs' Font 8A, 'Mutton Bustin' Font 8A and 'Mint Sauce Right Hand' Font 8A, all excellent problems (see video below).


                   
                           Bouldering at Griff's Buttress, Blackwell Dale

By the time September rolled around (or is that Sendtember!) thankfully connies were much cooler and I surprised myself by getting up to the eyes 3 times in a session, which made clear how vital cool conditions are on this line. I re-engineered my beta on the redpoint crux to a higher step up with the feet which seemed to make the move a little more manageable from the ground. 

About to clip the 3rd bolt on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson)

I had 2 sessions in even colder conditions where I got up to the eyes on every redpoint and finally stuck the redpoint crux (see picture below). This was a great feeling after trying this rig for more than a year!

Sticking the redpoint crux on Progress (Credit: Martin Atkinson)

The next go that session I got a move further but realised that I was stranded as my feet cut and I was left dangling from 2 poor pinches! Sadly, there were no further opportunities for me as the next round of wet weather blew in and that was it for the year. I have made a video of my highpoint (see below) and am beyond psyched to get stuck back into this beast as soon as the crag dries out in the spring, bring it on!

                                   My best attempt on Progress

                            

Just Do It!

I've been back in Manchester for a few days now and have had a chance to reflect on my latest trip to Smith Rock. Flying back this time felt like the end of an era in some ways, complete with the usual jet lag and kipping on airport benches at 3am, good times! This was my 6th trip in 3 years to try Just Do It and I was aware that time was running out for completion of this project due to the pressures of keeping on trying a route so far away from my home. I said to myself at the start of the trip that it was important to get it done this time around so I could move on with my climbing and free up time and effort to sample some of the classics closer to home. I was lucky enough to have been given the option of staying out for a longer period of time before flying out due to my work circumstances so I had this up my sleeve. 

The slap up to the 'sidepull sloper' on the upper crux (Screengrab: Nate Gerhardt)

In the back of my mind was my talus fracture back in December and how well I would be climbing compared to previous trips. Luckily, on my first session up on the Monkey I quickly realised that I felt stronger than my last trip and my fitness was decent due to a recent spell at Malham and some indoor routes at Stockport Wall. I had also been lapping my replica of the route at Rockover Climbing Centre that Tom Stewart, the owner, had kindly let me set on their auto belay area. I had been adding ever increasing amounts of climbing going up and down different routes before shaking out on the first hold of the replica (a hold very similar to the big flat hold at the 13th bolt which marks the start of the upper cruxes in the purple rock) and then finishing up it, which I had never been able to do training on the same set up last year. So, just the small matter of climbing the real thing!

The lower crux in the purple rock (Pic: Mike Doyle)

On the first day, it was a case of getting reacquainted with the moves as usual and keeping jet lag at bay. On the second session, I went for the key link from the 1st chains to the top (which weighs in at 14a or 8b+) which I had done once before in 2016 but which I had never had the chance to get solid on due to the pressure to keep trying from the ground every time on shorter trips. I surprised myself by getting through the upper crux twice and very nearly going to the top on my first attempt, getting shut down on the last big move of the upper crux sequence, to a relatively big flat crimp before the final, hopefully not droppable (!), moves up to the final shake out guarding the chains. I had never done this so early in the trip and was in 2 minds as to whether to keep trying this link or start trying from the ground. I decided to try from the ground. After a session or 2 of narrowly failing to reach the porthole, I managed to get up there before the end of the first week, which is the earliest I have ever managed this on all of my trips. The porthole rest follows the first crux section in the purple rock on crimps which is around V8 or so. (For those interested in my previous trips to try Just Do It, check out my previous blog posts from 2015 onwards: tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/2015/06/attempts-on-just-do-it.html)

Approaching the porthole rest (Pic: Jason Bagby)

This time I could feel that I had a bit more fitness in my arms from all the training over the winter and had a good stab at getting past the upper crux, another powerful V8 boulder problem. This sequence is more sustained than the crux before the porthole (comprising 8 hard moves in total) and the hardest 2 moves involve a powerful lock off and cross over from a 1st joint 2 finger pocket to a poor, gaston crimp and then holding this to then fire into another, better, 2 finger pocket. From this pocket, 4 slightly easier moves follow without rest before the relative sanctuary of the 'big, flat crimp' by the 16th bolt and the still tricky exit moves. 

On my next session, I was mega psyched to finally stick the upper crux pocket stab to the 2 finger pocket on a session with Steven Dimmitt. This was the breakthrough I had been looking for and what the previous 15 or so redpoints up to the porthole over my last 3 trips had led up to. I very nearly stuck the next big move to the 'sidepull sloper' too but was so surprised at finally having stuck the pocket stab move that I fell just short of it, but I didn't mind as I knew it was now on, I could do this!!

After sticking the upper crux for the first time from the ground (Pic: Steven Dimmitt)

I still had a few days before my flight was due so I persisted in trying it in hot conditions with only 1 rest day between attempts in the hope of snagging the route without having to rebook my flight. Unfortunately, conditions were too warm so I the slight setback of having regressed from my highpoint with the nagging doubt as to whether I would ever get up there again. Luckily, having not got on the flight, the pressure was off in some ways as with no fixed return date, I had the luxury of being in a position to pick and choose my redpoint days. Little did I know that it would take another month before I was clipping the chains!

After a mini-heat wave of 80+F temps, I returned with Crit Concrad and managed to get a move higher, holding the sidepull sloper but not having quite enough power to get crimped up on it, which you need to do in order to execute the next throw to the 'big flat crimp'. Since failing on this move on the link from the 1st chains on my second session, I couldn't decide whether to move my feet 4 times using some intermediate footholds (which seemed to be less strenuous and more in balance) or to stick with my old foot sequence, which was only 2 foot moves and more powerful but quicker. I went with the former option and chanced introducing some new foot moves as these moves felt OK on the link from the porthole. Unfortunately, on my redpoint, I ended up stranded below the throw move with no hope of sticking it as I was too pumped to move my feet! I went for it anyway and took the ride with a new highpoint under my belt of 2 handmoves further up the wall, which was good progress nevertheless. The lesson I took from this was not to tinker with your sequence, best to stick with the devil you know!

The first 2 finger pocket move on the lower pitch (Pic: Mike Doyle)

I was fully expecting to be able to rest 2 days then head back up to the Monkey and send but the weather had other plans. Another mini-heatwave rolled in and I was forced to train in the morning cool of Morning Glory Wall and Aggro Gully. This was no bad thing as I was able to reference my fitness on my favourite training routes such as Churning in the Wake 13a, Aggro Monkey 13b, Disposable Heroes 13a and The Quickening 12c. I even chucked a lap on Full Heinous Cling 12c in the Dihedrals, for old times sake ;). I clocked up 4 or 5 such sessions over 6 weeks and I think this helped me to avoid burnout. Still, it was not ideal having to wait more days than necessary when I was on the brink of success and there were times during the hot spell when I began to doubt whether it would ever cool off and I would get another chance. It was at such times that I found it important to stay focused and positive during the long hours away from the crags. Using the time productively was important as one of the problems of all the resting was how to keep your mind from constantly obsessing about the route, which could be counterproductive. I spent many happy hours in Redmond library reading classic novels like Jack Kerouac's 'On the Road' and Thomas Hardy's 'Return of the Native', books I will always associate with my time out in Oregon. 

Just below the good rest above the 9th bolt, the chains of the first pitch just above  (Pic: Mike Doyle)

I had one abortive early morning session with Brady Kendrick getting up at 5am for a 6:45am start up on the Monkey to beat the heat. I shall always remember Brady pulling up in his truck and the whooping and hollering and 'Heck yea's' for no particular reason other than pure psyche as I cranked out some hangs on the Tension flashboard hung up in the parking lot while the coffee kicked in. This session was not a success as the entire route was in the sun by 8am before even one redpoint was possible, leading to an impromptu training session in the gully on the way back - at least we tried!

The stemming rest at the 9th bolt (Pic: Jenny Abegg)

By the time temps cooled down, I had spent a week without any redpoints since my highpoint and was nervous about whether I would be able to get past the upper crux again. Probably the low point of the trip came after my first redpoint that first session back when I failed to get up to the porthole. To be honest I was gutted as I began to wonder whether I had burnt out and would ever regain my highpoint. A change of pace was in order and I elected not to have a second redpoint from the ground for once. I bolt to bolted up to the 9th bolt and then managed to do a link from there to the top, which was a massive confidence boost as it was one bolt better than the link I had been aiming for on my second session and a personal best in still warm conditions. It also involved climbing into and out of the main stemming rest above the 9th bolt. Every move felt the best it had ever felt and I had power in reserve at the chains. I needn't have worried about fluffing my previous redpoint and had turned the session around. The moves on small crimps leading to the porthole are so hard on the link from the ground that it is inevitable that you won't have a 100% strike rate. If you put your feet a few cm's left or right of the sweet spots on each foothold then you are liable to be spat off. Sometimes, redpoints don't go well purely down to the law of averages - you can't always climb at your best. 

Big move at the 12th bolt (Pic: Mike Doyle)

The next session with Brady and Jenny Abegg proved to be a turning point and it was a rare occasion when the weather allowed me to take rest 2 days and then go back up for another session without having to wait for a longer hot spell to dissipate. In hindsight, I could have done it this session as I stuck the pocket stab move twice, which I had never done in a single session before. Unfortunately, I didn't get the second 2 finger pocket as well as I would have liked which left me short on the slap to the sidepull sloper so I didn't quite make my highpoint again.

Focus required! Just below the 3 finger crimp on the 1st crux of the purple rock (Pic: Mike Doyle)

The Monkey was still intent on testing me though as yet another 5 day heatwave rolled in with some pretty horrible, humid thunderstorms thrown into the mix. I made a tactical error of coming out one evening for a session to try and keep momentum going as I had rested 2 days already and felt really fresh. This was a mistake as I fell off the upper crux in really humid, warm conditions. Lesson number 2, don't bother trying things at your limit in bad conditions, rest up instead! In retrospect, I should have gone training at the gym in Bend or something, anything but try Just Do It! 

Starting the upper crux: locking the first 2 finger pocket, about to crossover for the gaston (Screengrab: Nate Gerhardt)

Crossover move from the 2 finger pocket on the 
upper crux (Pic: Heather Furtney, from Oct 2015)

I managed to steady the ship with a session sticking the pocket stab again with Mike Doyle on a session when he came super close to sending the East Face Crack 13d without clipping any of the fixed gear, taking an impressive fall in the process (he sent it with ease next session). However, I didn't make any impression on the slap to the sidepull sloper, which did nothing to ease my fears of having peaked too soon. I decided to try the 1st chains to the top link without lowering off after my second burn and after 10 mins hanging at the 1st chains. This link felt the easiest it had ever felt using my old, quicker foot sequence. I knew I was getting closer and it was only a matter of time.

The redpoint crux - stabbing into a 2 finger pocket 
off a small gaston crimp (Pic: Heather Furtney, from Oct 2015)

I was destined to have one more close session and made the trek up there with Jon Roderick, who has been trying the East Face Crack and who I belayed on a very smooth ascent of the lower pitch (12c on trad), way to go Jon! This session, I failed on the pocket stab move twice, despite 2 full rest days so I was stressing out wondering whether I had lost the power needed for this move. However, the saving grace was another 1st chains to top link after 10 minutes rest following my second burn. Jon put up with me offloading a load of doubts about conditions and beta on the walk down, sorry Jon!

The weekend looked warm so I would only have one rest day before an attempt on Friday, which looked like half decent temps with the forecast saying 70 degrees. I scoured my contacts for a belayer and luckily Lukas Strauss-Wise agreed to come out at short notice on Friday night, which was a big ask. It felt warm in the air in the gully but hanging out there with my good friends Andrew Hunzicker and Nate Gerhardt helped to create a relaxed atmosphere. We could feel a warm breeze blowing down the gully and all agreed conditions felt good, despite the heat. I left it until the last possible moment to allow for one burn before sunset before hiking up to the Monkey. The initial bolt to bolt go felt good and I was psyched to have the chance for a decent attempt before resting through the heat of the weekend after which substantial rest I should then be in a position to have a full blooded go on Monday.

The big move to the sidepull sloper 
(Pic: Heather Furtney, from Oct 2015)

To my horror, I proceeded to fall of the move cranking a tiny right hand sidepull just above the 3rd bolt, a move I hadn't fallen off in over 2 years. I put it down to the relative heat then lowered off and rested 15 minutes, which is all the time there was left before it would start to get too dark to see footholds. Without any expectations, just before 8:30, I set off again and managed to slap through the sidepull move. I had extended the 8th draw on my previous session which enabled me to clip it from lower down in a position of balance and made it less strenuous. I arrived in the rest above the 9th bolt feeling fresh and for some reason started for the first time to alternate putting my weight over my right then left foot as I shook out each arm in turn, which I think helped. After my regulation 2 minutes shake, I set out up the familiar 12d section leading up to the 13th bolt shake. I realised I was feeling really good and so didn't stay more than a couple of shakes on this hold before attacking the next big move up and right leading into the crux crimps. I made it through these moves to the porthole with relief and then tried to calm my breathing down. 

           My send video. (Advisory, contains some slightly 'rum' language)

After 45 seconds and 2 shakes on each arm, I eyed up the upper crux then set off. One thing I had learnt on my previous session was to be sure of adjusting several times in the first 2 finger pocket to get it really well so I really twisted my fingers in deep and adjusted 4 times. Another key bit of micro beta was to do an old fashioned foot swap on the sika crimp on the cross over move to the gaston crimp rather than place your feet next to each other on this hold. My outside left foot came down on the foothold perfectly after the swap and I cranked up to the gaston. I fully crimped this and placed my right toe on the dicey smear. This time, I hit right in the back of the second 2 finger pocket and only needed one adjust before moving my feet up for the slap to the sidepull sloper. After a power grunt, I got more than enough height to get crimped up on the sloper using the crucial crystal at the top of the hold and before I knew it I was crimping the intermediate sidepull and moving my left foot out in readiness for the throw up to the big flat crimp. I went for it and my fingers latched the hold, I was in! The exit moves went on autopilot and the next thing I knew, I was shaking out in the final jug before the last moves 5.12 guarding the chains. Thankfully these went without incident and I was clipping the chains! It was a great feeling to put this project to bed and be able to fly back to the UK without any unfinished business for a change. 

Post send pic (Pic: Lukas Strauss-Wise)

I would like to thank everybody who came up to the Monkey to belay me or offer support, it means a lot! Coming from the UK with no partner this time, I was relying on finding partners out here. The fact that I was able to keep coming up there for 6 weeks with not a single time when I had to skip a good day for lack of a partner is a testament to the awesome Smith Rock climbing community. A special mention to my friend Calvin Landrus who came out to belay me a tonne back in 2015 and 2016 but who has recently sadly contracted leukemia. I am happy to hear that the chemo has been going well and best of luck with the recovery. 

Happy climbing out there and good luck with all of your projects!

Beers in Bend!