Power Ranger 8b+ and Projects Update

I hope you're all making the best of the changes this year has brought to our climbing and training plans. I like many others have had to forego the usual plans to visit Spain and Font around this time of year but never fear, now a vaccine has been found, with any luck we'll all be able to get back out there sooner rather than later. 

Progress 8c+ (lower crux) attempt from 2018 (Credit: Richard Waterton)

The silver lining of the confinement of many of us to UK crags has been the increased focus on home projects. Over the summer, I made some big efforts to get Progress at Kilnsey done but it has eluded me for another year due to the late start in June and some predictably wet late summer connies. Still, I can take comfort from some positives in that I found some improved and more efficient beta and even a new rest by the 6th bolt which I had previously discounted which may prove to be the key to unlocking the world of pump which this rig turns into once you get beyond the 'eyes' which is the first staging post at the 5th bolt. Here is a video of my best attempt (not using the new rest) back in August which was only 5 hand moves off my previous year's high point just shy of the 8th bolt. I was more consistent this year, getting the 7th bolt clipped on around 5 or more occasions before the traverse right to the 8th where the climbing finally starts to ease. Roll on next year for some more attempts, the siege continues! 

My best attempt on Progress 8c+ in August 

Once Progress got wet, I decided to investigate Northern Exposure, the short Steve Dunning 8b+ to the left, which I believe has not had an ascent since Adam Ondra's back in 2011 as part of Northern Star 9a/+ despite some attempts over the years. Rumours of broken holds abounded but I was stoked to find that its still possible and that a slightly crumbled sidepull by the 3rd bolt does not affect the clip or crux moves significantly. I put some good burns into this thing and got close but again was foiled by the approaching end of the season and some persistently wet pockets. I tried my best to dry them with kitchen roll but my increasingly desparate attempts to eke out further redpoints had to face reality at the end of October. Here is a clip of my best go - I have since found better beta which makes the sequence higher percentage than the jump method I was using. Again, bring on next season for a continuation of the campaign! 

My closest go on Northern Exposure 8b+ in September 

Happily, the season was to yield some route success for me in the form of Power Ranger 8b+ at Malham, Tony Mitchell's quality extension to Wasted Youth 7b+. I had tried this off and on for the last 2 years whenever I went to the Cove but never with any consistency as I was always so engaged with Progress. This year, I devoted some more sustained attempts to it once Progress got wet and was rewarded with the discovery of an improved sequence through the crux bulge and a good kneebar resting strategy at the Wasted Youth belay which was the key to doing it in a oner. Eder showed me another kneebar just before the move over the bulge where it is just possible to take your hands off if you have a core of steel (!) but this was actually more useful to clip the crux draw off of rather than rest. (Its a pain wearing 2 pads climbing but worth it if you can get up it!) Several redpoints battered the route into submission slowly and it was a rewarding moment to be embarking on the upper wall knowing that all I had to do was avoid fluffing these still tricky 7b+ moves before reaching the final hands off scoop up and right of the final bolt where the route finishes. Here is my video of the send go:

Power Ranger 8b+ in October 

The route did not have a proper lower off so I decided to sort this out as there is nothing worse than a route without a clearly defined end point. So I went back with Jim and slammed a new belay into the scoop (as well as sorting out the position of the Connect 4 belay and crux clip). I also went back on a second occasion to rebolt Snidely Whiplash 7a+ which will form a logical continuation to Power Ranger leading to the top ledge for any psyched future candidate! No extra grade for this project but the kudos of taking the route to the top like on Overjustified to the left. I even spotted a gap to the right of Snidely which I equipped and which will start from the new Power Ranger belay - one for next year. I'm pleased to have found my first UK new route project that I bolted myself, it might be 7a+ or impossible, time will tell. It may be in a fairly inaccessible location requiring an abseil approach but its still new rock waiting to be climbed, can't wait to try it in 2021!

Finishing the crux sequence on Power Ranger 8b+ (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

Another view of the crux sequence on Power Ranger 8b+ (Credit: Marsha Balaeva)

Post send pic (Credit: Simon Durbridge)

I leave you with some thoughts on my current project at the Tor, Devolution 8c. Here is a vid of my best link go starting from both feet in the lower break and one hand on the block. I have decided to divert my energies into trying this rather than Evolution as the lower roof is so hard (around Font 8A from the ground) that even getting over this is proving to be a major challenge, never mind linking into the top 8b wall! Its worth being realistic at a certain point and its been fun focusing on the roof alone this year with the comparitively easy top wall of Chimes (up which this link finishes) not adding too much to the grade equation. I've been battling with a split tip since doing this link in November and getting some good redpoints in from the ground. Now even this has got wet, it could be time to train!

Devolution 8c , Raven Tor - best link go

So, keep up the psyche and crushing on home turf. There will be plenty of opportunity to head out to the promised land of Espana or Font I hope in the time ahead!