Today it all came together, I knew I was feeling stronger and conditions were mint. The flick to the sloper was working every time although getting the left foot up was still extremely touch and go as you have to squeeze like crazy between this very poor hold and the arete while nimbly running your feet up a blank wall to waist level, which is somewhat desparate. I even managed to embarrassingly fall off with the good sidepull jug in my hand when my foot blew off a poor smear which was agonising. Happily, it went down the next go, feeling much easier on the slopers due to the excellent conditions.
The sit start was tempting and thankfully I found a way of starting side-on which made it pretty easy. While brushing the second sloper from the neighbouring boulder I noticed I was holding it too high on a very poor slopey part. I ticked up a slightly lower rugosity which looked a little more positive and this proved to make the difference. The move getting the left foot up felt a little easier this time and the sit was in the bag. Video footage of the stand will be aired soon!
Another problem that I managed to get on film is True Git which i was shown how to do today; i later found out I had not done it properly as you're meant to start matched in the low break but i reckon the stand start is 7a+. Here is the vid:
Later, I met Dave up by Western Eyes and after many attempts managed to do the lower moves to getting stood up. I have been trying this for a few years so was chuffed to do the desparate slap with the right hand for the good sidepull off the very slopey break. Unfortunately I didn't have the top bit worked so pinged off and was expertly caught by Dave before going for a spin down the hill! I got a bunk up and managed the move to the top break. So, although I could have perhaps done this with a bit of luck on the upper arete, it remains a work in progress. After watching Dave do the scary direct finish, it looks as though this will have to be done as well rather than stepping off into the gully, better get psyched!