|Adrift in a sea of rock. The sanctuary of the kneebar of Full Tilt with 8b climbing to go from here|
Attempt in September
I would often try the route 2 days on the trot on saturday and sunday as I was paranoid about it getting wet the next weekend, even if the crag was bone dry, given its notorious reputation for taking any seepage going. I was surprised at how even if I was feeling broken on sunday morning, after warming up, I was still able to make some good redpoints, its amazing what you can put your body through. Perhaps in retrospect it might have been better to have done some less intense climbing second day on and got some mileage in on some 8a+'s at other crags which is what I would have done on any other route at my limit. However, obsession took over and I was psyched to gradually piece the route together and get increments of progress with each visit.
|Match of justice on the first crux of Full Tilt 8b|
|The lower crux of Comedy|
|Vertical tech on Man with a Gun 7c+|
- Bullet 8a+
|Starting the crux moves on Bullet 8a+|
- 50 for 5/ The Ashes 8a+
- Complete Control 8a
- Sticky Wicket/ The Ashes 8a
- Rubble 7c (onsight)
- Dreamtime 7c+
- Dead Calm 7c+
|Stamina needed on Dead Calm 7c+|
|Trying La Connection 8b|
It was frustrating to slip off on several occasions whilst feeling fresh and strong on one time after redpointing Full Tilt as my left hand lost traction in the dampness at the back of the pocket by the belay and by the 3rd bolt when I took a big whip completely out of the blue pinging off a damp pinch, suitable swear words at the ready :). However, ulimately, I cannot blame the dampness or any other reason for not climbing True North. Not being able to get my left hand fully into the deep pocket you clip the Full Tilt belay off before taking the awful thumb press for the right hand and using it to gain the higher razor blade for the left hand (which is one of the harder moves on True North) undoubtedly made this move harder than it had been in August when this pocket had been totally dry. This was because I was using a diabolical polished footdink as my main right foothold and could hardly get any weight through it, making this move desparate as I was so bunched on the handholds; this method may be easier for the short as they are less bunched.
|Moving right from the Full Tilt belay into the first crux of True North|
On the upper moves off the burly left hand undercut, I also discovered a significantly easier method as I had been too bunched again on all of my 7 best attempts. Basically I had discounted a good, low right foothold by a bolt in favour of putting my right foot straight up on a high, downwards sloping niche hold that I now use later on in the sequence, which made standing up into the undercut the living end on the link, although it felt misleadingly OK on my warmup links. My new sequence has two new foot moves which make this bit easier overall as it is less strenuous and involves keep my feet lower.
|The hardest move of Full Tilt (for me). Going direct above the 3rd bolt using the boney left sidepull.|